Cornhole Cornhole

81 responses so far ↓

• 1 linda // Jun 18, 2007 at 12:48 am

  thx lots for this site, we never played but trying to build one,thx to this maybe we can get it right

• 2 Eric // Jun 18, 2007 at 6:50 am

  Glad you got some good info Linda. Enjoy your building!

• 3 Teresa // Jun 28, 2007 at 5:29 pm

  Do you have the dimensions for building? We just shopped around and found some not so great ones at the store. I don’t thin I like the bumps I saw on the plastic one. Anyway, I want to build ours.

• 4 Eric // Jun 28, 2007 at 8:56 pm

  Hi Teresa,

  Sure, take a look!!

  http://www.cornholecornhole.com/cornhole-plans/

• 5 Tom // Jun 28, 2007 at 8:59 pm

  Should 1/2″ or 3/4″ plywood be used for the boards?

• 6 Eric // Jul 4, 2007 at 9:38 am

  Hello Tom,

  1/2″ plywood is suggested. It wouldn’t hurt to use 3/4″ , but your boards would be pretty heavy. 1/2″ does the job while keeping the weight manageable.

• 7 Rick // Jul 14, 2007 at 3:23 pm

  What is a good surface finishing product for slickness. I like the wood finish, but want a pretty slick suface.

• 8 Eric // Jul 16, 2007 at 9:41 pm

  Hi Rick,
  You could try just a clear lacquer. I have never used it myself, but if you want a slick alternative to a high gloss painted surface, it would probably do the job.

• 9 Robyn Seavers // Jul 22, 2007 at 10:01 pm

  Hey Eric, I am building my corn hole board and want to put stickers on it after I prime and paint it with high gloss latex paint. What can I put over the entire surface so the stickers will stay put?

  Robyn

• 10 Eric // Jul 23, 2007 at 6:45 am

  Hello Robyn, You really don’t need to put anything over the stickers. They should stick to the paint fine. They might wear over time though. If you are worried about the wear, you could paint a clear coat over top of the whole top surface.

• 11 Robyn Seavers // Jul 24, 2007 at 6:03 pm

  Hi Eric, yeah I was thinking of something clear to protect the wear on the stickers, any suggestion on what would be best to use? that would still be good for the board as far as the slide of the corn bag goes?

• 12 Robyn Seavers // Jul 24, 2007 at 6:04 pm

  oh Sorry I see you told Rick to use a clear lacquer, I will look for that when I go to Lowe’s tonight :o)

  thanks!

• 13 Eric // Jul 24, 2007 at 7:20 pm

  No problem Robyn!

• 14 Robyn Seavers // Aug 10, 2007 at 10:53 am

  Hey Eric, I finished my boards and I used high gloss latex paint but my bags are not sliding……what’s up with that? Can’t wait to get the bags broke in they are so stiff!

• 15 Eric // Aug 10, 2007 at 4:20 pm

  Robyn,

  Your boards are build, that’s great to hear! The slide problem could be with your bags being so new. If you added the stickers, that could slow them down some.

• 16 Robyn Seavers // Aug 10, 2007 at 6:14 pm

  Wish I could send you a picture! if you want to email me I will!!! I haven’t put the stickers on yet…….I am thinking they are too small, trying to find a stencil of the numbers 2 and 0 (we are tony stewart fans) but having no luck and I have tried to make a stencil and it looks dumb! lol…….. I hope it’s just the newness of the bags…….

  Robyn

• 17 Eric // Aug 13, 2007 at 9:38 pm

  Hi there Robyn,

  I’d love to see your boards. I sent you my email. I wish I could help with the stencils. I’ll keep looking around and let you know if I find any!

• 18 Matt // Aug 15, 2007 at 7:20 pm

  Will twill fabric work for the bags? I have seen that duck canvas is preferred but I was wondering if there is a difference between the two fabrics.

  Matt

• 19 Eric // Aug 24, 2007 at 2:14 pm

  Hi Matt,

  I haven’t used twill before but it seems like a strong enough fabric. I have seen denim used as well.

• 20 Robyn // Aug 24, 2007 at 2:19 pm

  Hi Everyone and Eric!! I can’t find very nice colors in the duck cloth but I’m still looking. Eric my bags broke in rather quickly and slide great now. We’ve had such extreme heat here in IN or rain that I haven’t been able to play in over a week and I want to!! lol I bought my first set of bags online, they said they are double stitched but they aren’t! I can see them busting open anytime now. I have been sewing some and I am triple sewing mine. They will never come apart!
  Have fun playing!!!

• 21 travis // Sep 20, 2007 at 10:11 pm

  ya i used 1/2 in particel board and i used can paint and can clear to put over it when i toss my bags on it and they slide a little what do i put on hit to make it slide better.for my corn hole board

• 22 travis // Sep 20, 2007 at 10:15 pm

  i just what to now is particle board ok to use for corn hole board

• 23 Robyn // Sep 21, 2007 at 8:32 am

  The best board to use is untreated plywood, the better grade cost me $18.00 and change at Lowe’s. They cut it for me and I got 6 boards out of it. (s0 three corn hole sets) It’s already sanded, however after sinking the screws and filling the holes, I filled a couple of areas on the board and sanded them. No need for a clear coat of anything after using High Gloss Latex paint. Slides perfectly!

• 24 travis // Sep 22, 2007 at 10:45 am

  thanks

• 25 travis // Sep 22, 2007 at 10:47 am

  can you used clear out of a spray can after putting high gloss paint on it

• 26 travis // Sep 22, 2007 at 10:49 am

  never mind i see that you wrote you dont need clear coat

• 27 Eric // Sep 22, 2007 at 8:37 pm

  Hello Travis,

  The can of clear coat will work fine. Just keep a look out for runs. Make sure you use even strokes.

• 28 Dave // Sep 22, 2007 at 10:14 pm

  Hello everyone, i have just built a set of boards, painted white with some red and black on it, they look very nice. However i went to the local hardware store and the guy working recomented a clear finish used for decks. It has worked well for a protective coating but i would like to see it a little slicker, i was told to use gym seal by a freind. anyone ever used gym seal before?

• 29 Robyn // Sep 23, 2007 at 3:25 pm

  If you go to any corn hole sites and as Eric has stated before you are to use HIGH GLOSS LATEX PAINT and the end result is a great sliding board! that way you don’t have to add anything on top of your paint to get a nice slide. That along with the dust that comes out of the bag from the corn, you’ll have a great slick board!

• 30 Pam // Sep 25, 2007 at 9:43 am

  Just constructed our corn hole boards. We would like to stain them instead of painting them. Can you tell me what kind of stain, and should anything else be applied on top of the stain? We have Sikkens stain left over from doing our deck. Would it be appropriate to use that type of stain?

• 31 Eric // Sep 26, 2007 at 7:12 am

  Hi Pam,

  I’ll start by saying I’m no expert on stains. You might check with store where you bought your stain. Either way, the deck stain sounds like it will work fine. That should give you the protection you need. You shouldn’t need to apply anything else on top of the stain as long as your boards are smooth. I would stain first and just try them out. If you do not get the slide you want, you could add a clear coat. Since there are are all types of deck stains (solid, semi-transparent, etc), it’s tough to tell without trying it out.

• 32 Mark // Sep 26, 2007 at 10:04 pm

  Hello everyone…1st of all Robyn…no offense intended here…but your perfect slide might differ from other people’s perfect slide. Case and point. I painted my boards with semi-gloss paint and sprayed a can of clear coat on them. Still not enough slide!!! I used 2′ x 4′ birch wood for the decks. We played on them prior to painting them. And game play was awesome. You needed great skill to even keep the bag on the board. I want that slide back.

  Eric…I actually purchased a can a clear lacquer gloss . Now the can says no yellowing on it. But I have white on my deck and I am wary of using it because I don’t want yellowing on my board. Is there anything else that might work? Do you think the lacquer would be fine? Thanks for the reply in advance.

• 33 Eric // Sep 27, 2007 at 8:54 pm

  Hi Mark,

  I think the lacquer would get you the slide you are looking for. Not sure about the yellowing.

  Has anyone else had more experience with lacquer?

• 34 Robyn // Sep 27, 2007 at 9:54 pm

  well all I know is that Eric and every other site I’ve looked at and all the directions I’ve read say HIGH GLOSS LATEX PAINT you get the slide. I’ve never seen anyone complain of not having the right slide when using High Gloss Latex Paint. I didn’t come up with that, it’s in print everywhere. The slide is perfect and you don’t have to go looking for OTHER things to put over what you painted to try and get a good slide when you get THE slide with the high gloss latex paint. YOU said yourself Mark, you used semi gloss and STILL NOT ENOUGH SLIDE, why go through all that when just using what the experts say will do the trick.

• 35 Pat // Oct 13, 2007 at 11:07 am

  I made my own, and frankly, I wish I had just bought a set. It was fun doing the work, but it didn’t turn out as well as I hoped, and the cost in materials was almost as much as if I had bought a set.

• 36 Eric // Oct 14, 2007 at 9:13 am

  Hi Pat,

  I think most people build their own sets mostly for the satisfaction of it. It really should have been much cheaper too, if you had all of the tools. Not sure if you had plans, but they help quite a bit. Either way, sounds like you are up and running with a set. That’s all that matters. Have fun playing!!

• 37 James // Mar 31, 2008 at 7:04 pm

  I have a set of corn hole boards made from particle board…

  the top surface is pretty rough, can i sand it down and what grit of paper would you recommend?

  thanks.

• 38 Eric // Apr 5, 2008 at 10:23 am

  Hi James,
  That’s hard to answer without seeing the degree of roughness. You should start with a very coarse grade if it’s that bad. After knocking off the really rough stuff, you can then use a medium or fine grade.

• 39 Colin // Apr 20, 2008 at 9:02 pm

  I built my wood set last summer and now am ready to paint it and get it ready since the warm weather is finally here! I am looking for a nice professional paint job but im not artist…therefore, I am looking for a couple stencils (St. Louis Cardinals and Cincinnati Bengals). Do you have any idea where I can get a nice big one that will fill up the board? I have looked around but havent found any. Anyones help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks y’all and enjoy!

• 40 Jerry // May 4, 2008 at 8:46 am

  This site has college football stik-ables, if you look at ohio state they even show them on a cornhole board.
  www.teamstencils.com

• 41 Mauxe // May 7, 2008 at 9:16 pm

  I used a semi-gloss paint that I got at Lowes. I have had to go back at times and rough up the paint a bit to keep the boards from sliding TOO much. I like to work the slide on my boards but there was a time when you just had to go high arc on every throw and forego any sliding (unless a couple of bags had built a backstop) because you were definitely going to fly off the back with even a light touch.

  I had even gone back and repainted last year to try to get some of the tack back. I think the issue came from a combination of heavy play coupled with storing the boards in my hot, dry garage.

  Another thing is that playing in the sun really keeps the boards slick. Once we get the spotlights out and get a little bit of moisture in the air things get back to normal a bit.

  The point being: many factors can…. er… factor into how your set plays. Some people even have such slide issues that they go so far as to mix a little grit into their paint to provide texture.

• 42 Justin // May 17, 2008 at 10:47 pm

  What’s up everyone. I made my third set yesterday for some friends of mine, and did the same as I did in the past. Used a spay-gun to prime,paint, and then used a paver sealer to coat them. They have not chipped faded or needed any sort of matinence. You can wash them off with a hose and the are fine. This sealer is completly impenetrible. FYI I’m from michigan so just made a set with big Detroit D’s on it and the color scheme is that of the tigers.

• 43 Colin // May 18, 2008 at 1:34 pm

  Justin…how did you put the big Tigers “D” on your board? Stencil? If so, where did you get it or how did you make it? Thanks!

• 44 Robyn // May 25, 2008 at 6:22 pm

  Hey Justin!! Love your idea of the spraying the paint on, I’m sure it’s must easier and nicer than using a brush. Hey what is that Paver Sealer?

• 45 Chris // May 29, 2008 at 9:33 am

  Just thought I’d put my two cents in on materials and finishing. Birch plywood is a great material; stable flat, smooth and free of voids. A great alternative, that was 6 bucks for a 1/2″x2′x4′ pre-cut sheet, is MDF(Medium Density Fiberboard.) It is absolutely flat, the precut board is square, a flatter surface than Birch and paints really well. Pre-drilling is a MUST! Unlike plywood, you can very easily tear out and break the screw holes if you just drive the screw in. When making the six inch hole, the absolutly easiest way is a router on a compass. I digress…

  Finishing… If you want the flatest surface possible, start with a sanding sealer before your final sanding. If staining continue with a wood coditioner to keep the stain from staining more poreus parts too much and causing a blochy apperance. Or not if you don’t care. Stain per ther directions. Gel stains work really well.

  There has been disscussions about clear finishes. True lacquer will yellow in time. Though any clear, in time, will yellow some. Your best bet would be a gloss polyurethane. PolyAcrylic by Minwax is a great product for it’s ease of application. Apply several coats, lightly sanding in-between dried coats with #0000 steel wool or 220 sand paper. Wipe off any debris left by sanding with a tack cloth. Sanding helps the next coat stick better and takes out any imperfections in the previous applications. If you want a slick surface 3 or 4 coats will do it. Be warned it may be too slick! If you want to clear but don’t want as much “slickyness” try a semi-gloss. If you stain rather than paint, you will need to clear it. I haven seen or used anything that is considered a stain than left a smooth finish. Most stains will even raise the grain of wood slightly. When it’s all said and done, you can improve the slide by using carwax if it’s still not slick enough or imrove a sticky board. Paint will get stickier in humid weather so a coat of wax will keep it slick.

  A neat trick to put graphics on your board is to print out what ever you like on your injet printer on regular paper, cut them out with a craft knife or scissors, spray the back with spray adhesive, stick them where you like on the board then put a few coats of clear on. Wholla! You will need to use an oil based clear because water based products, such as the PolyAcrylic, will make the printing run. Have fun! Hope this helped!

• 46 Drew // Jun 2, 2008 at 2:14 am

  Eric, my question is that im about to paint my cornhole set and i kno to use a primer and then either a semi-gloss or high-gloss paint but i wanted to hand draw the UK wildcat in the middle of the board and then put a clear coat over it, will the paint from that cause the bags to stick to the board and if so how should i go about painting the wildcat??

• 47 Eric // Jun 3, 2008 at 8:53 pm

  Hi Drew,
  I wouldn’t worry about the bags sticking. Your hand drawn/painted parts won’t be thick enough to have a noticeable affect. The clear coat will also help blend it.

• 48 Drew // Jun 4, 2008 at 5:56 am

  thanx i appreciate it

• 49 Selina // Jun 8, 2008 at 11:23 pm

  Hey there! My husband and I just made our first set of boards. We painted them using high gloss paint. One board is white and one is a darker gray. They are going to be Cubs boards when our stickers arrive. My question is that the white one dried nicely and the bags slide great,however the gray one looks great but is sticky and the bags don’t slide so great. Any suggestions???

• 50 Robyn // Jun 9, 2008 at 12:35 am

  Hey Selina!! I want to do Cubs boards too, where are are you getting your stickers from?

  thanks!!

• 51 Selina // Jun 9, 2008 at 3:11 pm

  We are getting ours off of ebay. They have a few cubs designs. You should check them out! Not too expensive either.

• 52 Justin // Jun 9, 2008 at 9:34 pm

  Wait till you put the decals on then poly-urethene the boards. They will both be the same slickness and help to keep decals looking great.

• 53 Milky // Jun 13, 2008 at 12:00 pm

  I spent the last two weeks designing and building my boards. I used the pre-cut 2′ x 4′ panels of 1/2″ birch that they sell at Home Depot. My boards are Jimmy Buffett themed, for his concert this weekend. I’ve made them as a surprise for my friends and none of us have ever even played Cornhole. I didn’t prime. I used high gloss Rustoleum colored paints and no kind of lacquered finish or anything. My bags came in the mail yesterday and I’m filling them tonight. I am very worried that the slide won’t work and that all my hard work will be a failure. I’ve read every post here and everywhere online, and it seems like a good solution would be to use a paste wax, like a bowling alley wax or something like that. I sure could use any thoughts/help/ideas right now. Thank you in advance to anyone who can offer some help. 20 hours and counting until we throw our first bags ever, and I am worried…….

• 54 Wilbur // Jun 14, 2008 at 4:31 am

  What is the best method of applying graphics to a cornhole board. I want to print my own graphics. I have a computer and inkjet printer. Would waterslide decals work?

• 55 Eric // Jun 14, 2008 at 10:47 pm

  Hi Milky,
  Don’t know how far you got but I would skip the paste wax. Try them first. The high gloss Rustoleum should do the trick. If you don’t get the slide you want, you can add a coat of gloss polyurethane.

• 56 Milky // Jun 16, 2008 at 10:53 am

  Thanks Eric. So, to put an ending to the story: I ended up using the minwax paste wax. I put on two light coats and it took me a total of about 1/2 hour. The boards were perfect. I mean, I couldn’t have asked for better results. I do have a question though. My boards seemed to be a little “bouncy”. This is my first set and my first time playing, so I don’t know if that’s proper or not. What I mean is that many times prople would put the bag directly in front of the the hole and it would bounce over and off. Is that normal? Anyway, I had 6 people ask me for help in building a set and everyone was excited. We played for hours until the stupid rain came. I’m officially addicted. Thanks again!

• 57 James // Jun 17, 2008 at 4:52 pm

  Hi,

  Can somebody give me more info on making logos using your own printer…

  do you use regualr paper?

  just cut out put on board and paint?

  thanks in advance.

• 58 wilbur // Jun 17, 2008 at 5:16 pm

  I was having the same problem getting a graphic and putting it on my board. So I decided to practice. I printed my graphic on photo paper on high resoulution. I then took it to office max and had it enlarged in grayscale. I went to the local craft store and bought transfer paper. Put the graphic on the transfer paper and lay the two of them on your board where you want the graphic. Tape them so they don’t move. Using a ball point pen I traced the graphic onto the board. After you are done you can paint the graphic with paint from the craft store. I am not an artist but I had very good results. After painting onto the board I will spray with an acrylic clear spray to protect.

• 59 joe // Jun 17, 2008 at 6:42 pm

  I put some stickers on my boards before anything else. Can I spray on a clear coat to protect them and then go over it with lacquer or poly? Or what should I do so i don’t ruin my stickers? Thanks

• 60 Matt // Jun 22, 2008 at 3:56 pm

  I used stickables and they work great. Just paint the clear coat directly over the stickers. I’ve applied seven coats so far to even out the playing surface since the stickables will raise the surface a few millimeters.

  http://www.teamstencils.com/

• 61 matt // Jun 23, 2008 at 5:33 pm

  i have made my own boards, painted just how i want them> however they are so slick that if you was to just drop a bag standing over them the bag would slide off. Way to slick.. Anybody got an idea to fix this without messing up the paint job?? thanks

• 62 Eric // Jun 25, 2008 at 10:26 pm

  Matt,
  Without getting in to roughing up your boards and such, you might give your bags a chance to break in. Take a look at some of the slide comments above. Most of the time, when your bags get broken in, they slow down. It’s that new, stiff fabric that is so slick on the boards.

• 63 Your Best Friend // Jun 26, 2008 at 6:12 pm

  Matt,
  you could add another layer of clear coat and sprinkle on a little finely ground sand while the boards are still wet. Grip tape theory.

• 64 kyle // Jul 10, 2008 at 2:26 pm

  i was thinking bout buying some boards online that were the natural wood look with a clear coat on them but i was wondering if i would be able to paint over that?

• 65 Patrick // Jul 14, 2008 at 7:54 pm

  Im doing mine just like Matt said on 6/22. I got reusable 16″ adhesives of the CLeveland Browns at Giant Eagle for $6 each. They are a little thick but im just going to layer over with clear. Im trying Decopauge instead of polyurethane. I got it at Joann Stores. Someone I know used it and I like his boards alot. Anyone try that stuff?

• 66 Eric // Jul 15, 2008 at 7:18 am

  Kyle,
  Short answer, yes. You first have to dull, by sanding, and then prime the boards before painting. If you have plans to paint though, I would contact the seller and ask if you can buy them without anything on the boards. You might even be able to save a buck or two.

• 67 Susan // Jul 15, 2008 at 11:49 am

  Hi everyone, you have provided such valuable information as I start to paint my first board. No one has talked about how to paint two or more colors and how to keep them from running into one another. I am thinking that painters tape may let one color bled onto the other. Any suggestions? Also, should the primer be high gloss, also? If so, can I use this coat as my final white coat and not paint on an additional high gloss white? Thanks!

• 68 Robyn // Jul 15, 2008 at 2:07 pm

  Hi Susan, I have used the higher grade plywood for all the sets I have made (sanded on one side) and found that the painters tape does let the paint bleed under it because even though it is sanded it is not perfectly smooth. It’s a pain to have to touch up the paint that bled onto the color next to what you are painting. And even though it is a pain I have found it’s better than trying to free hand. However you might be better than free hand painting than I am, so you might not mind doing it that way?? Good luck!!!

• 69 Susan // Jul 15, 2008 at 4:35 pm

  Thanks Robyn! Anyone else have some pointers? I am definitely not good at free hand painting!

• 70 Eric // Jul 16, 2008 at 7:07 am

  Hi Susan,
  Painters tape is really the easiest way I think. Here are a couple of tips. Go over the tape to make sure it is pushed down very well. Use only a little paint around the seam. The more paint you use the more it will run under the seam. Brush from the tape to the wood and not the other way around. This should keep your paint form bleeding.

• 71 Ben // Jul 19, 2008 at 12:24 pm

  I built my boards with 1/2″ birch and then used high gloss spray paint. They looked great but I needed to add PolyAcrylic to get a better slide.

• 72 Mike // Jul 20, 2008 at 12:10 pm

  When painting with two different color paints or stripes you could use auto pin striping to cover the bleed over of the two colors left when taking off the tape . This will make a clean line and a custom look. After your paint colors, Decals and pinstripe are finished then clear the entire board to smooth the finish. My decks are done in flames.

• 73 Wilbur // Jul 20, 2008 at 1:00 pm

  If you want to stop bleeding when using two colors, go to home depot and buy frog tape. You will then make a perfectly straight line. No bleeding. The tape is green and costs around $11.00 a roll. It will go a long way. Good luck.

• 74 Fred // Jul 22, 2008 at 1:26 am

  For those that have used stickers, has the Poly Acrylic worked ok as a finish over the top? Im interested as I just bought a couple 11×17 stickers I’d like to use.

• 75 jim // Jul 27, 2008 at 6:49 pm

  So if I paint with semi gloss I should put a coat or two of PolyAcrylic to seal the deal? I am thinking about doing what chris said and print out my graphics and glue them on. Should I do this or stencil them on and paint them and can I cover the paper graphics with a clear coat??

• 76 Justin // Jul 28, 2008 at 9:32 am

  I think it isn’t a good idea to glue stickers on, the glue has the potential release from the board. I feel the best thing to use for a decal is some good quality vinyl. I have done both in the past and the vinyl has held the test of time.

• 77 Matt // Aug 2, 2008 at 11:39 am

  I had the same problem about having a glossy surface and bags that wouldn’t slide. I just wiped some Pledge on the surface, and it slickened them right up (maybe even a bit too much). Over time, the pledge will wear down, the bag surfaces will smooth up a bit, and the surface should be just right.

• 78 Tim // Aug 5, 2008 at 10:32 pm

  First time on this site and saw a couple of questions that I thought I might be able to help with. First is painting more than one color without any bleeding. First is to use a painters tape. To keep paint from bleeding first take a spoon and press the edge down. Second take a painters latex caulk put it on your finder and wipe it alone the tape edge(very thin). It is a lot thicker than paint and will no pull under tape. Paint and carefully remove tape while paint is still wet. This will help any peeling and keep a smoother edge. Let dry thoroughly according to paint used. Next retape for next color. At this point I use Scotts delicate surface tape to avoid any chance of pealing the paint up. Caulk, paint and peal tape. The trick is the caulk and pulling the tape while paint is still wet.
  Second is how to get stencils. One if you look in the phone book for places that do them for cars and trucks but it can be a little pricey. If you print a design in black on a inkjet printer you can put that on your board and and put heat to it and it will trasfer it to your board and you can then hand paint it on the board. I got a wood burner and a bit for it that does just that. Just have to be careful not to burn anything down. Good to practice on something else first. It takes a special touch depending on just how much ink is on the paper to be transfered. Hope this helps.

• 79 cristina // Aug 16, 2008 at 9:58 pm

  Hi Eric! I built my first set of boards and am ready to paint! I got a high gloss latex paint to paint all over and then I want to put my last name with stencils in the middle with a different color and I got a satin finish by accident. Can I still use that and spray Rustoleum crystal clear enamel all over the board and it’ll be great or should I get the paint I want to stencil with in high gloss instead? and. .when using a primer is there a certain kind that is better?

• 80 Eric // Aug 18, 2008 at 7:05 am

  Hey Cristina,
  Yeah, I’d just use what you have. Depending on the board prep, semi-gloss or even satin would even work well for the whole boards without much noticeable difference, even though high gloss is suggested. That little bit for your name won’t even be noticeable. As for primers, any brand will work fine. Because it’s not the final coat you really don’t need to be too picky.

• 81 Alison // Sep 2, 2008 at 6:05 pm

  hello - i just started painting my first cornhole set this weekend, without doing my research..b/c i used oil based paint! i read everyone’s posts and i see i should’ve used high gloss latex. have i ruined my boards? i primed them and put two coats of maroon oil-based paint. i bought a can of clear spray enamel and was going to use that as a topcoat.

  does anyone know if oil-based paint works on the boards? thanks in advance! these are a gift, so i’m hoping i haven’t messed up!

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