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	<title>Comments on: How To Choose The Perfect Material For Your Cornhole Boards</title>
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	<link>http://www.cornholecornhole.com/how-to-choose-the-perfect-material-for-your-cornhole-boards</link>
	<description>Game Info, Building Tips, Cornhole Plans, and More</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Wed, 25 Jan 2012 11:21:59 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>By: Buy Cheap Stuff Online</title>
		<link>http://www.cornholecornhole.com/how-to-choose-the-perfect-material-for-your-cornhole-boards/comment-page-7#comment-82331</link>
		<dc:creator>Buy Cheap Stuff Online</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 20 Jan 2012 05:02:02 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.cornholecornhole.com/wp2/how-to-choose-the-perfect-material-for-your-cornhole-boards#comment-82331</guid>
		<description>Heya i?m for the first time here. I found this board and I in finding It really helpful &amp; it helped me out much. I&#039;m hoping to give something back and aid others like you aided me.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Heya i?m for the first time here. I found this board and I in finding It really helpful &amp; it helped me out much. I&#8217;m hoping to give something back and aid others like you aided me.</p>
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		<title>By: campground</title>
		<link>http://www.cornholecornhole.com/how-to-choose-the-perfect-material-for-your-cornhole-boards/comment-page-7#comment-77827</link>
		<dc:creator>campground</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 30 Dec 2011 17:33:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.cornholecornhole.com/wp2/how-to-choose-the-perfect-material-for-your-cornhole-boards#comment-77827</guid>
		<description>I liked up to you will obtain carried out proper here. The sketch is attractive, your authored material stylish. however, you command get bought an nervousness over that you would like be delivering the following. ill indubitably come further until now again since precisely the similar nearly a lot steadily inside of case you defend this hike.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I liked up to you will obtain carried out proper here. The sketch is attractive, your authored material stylish. however, you command get bought an nervousness over that you would like be delivering the following. ill indubitably come further until now again since precisely the similar nearly a lot steadily inside of case you defend this hike.</p>
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		<title>By: TJ</title>
		<link>http://www.cornholecornhole.com/how-to-choose-the-perfect-material-for-your-cornhole-boards/comment-page-7#comment-77386</link>
		<dc:creator>TJ</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 28 Dec 2011 19:14:48 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.cornholecornhole.com/wp2/how-to-choose-the-perfect-material-for-your-cornhole-boards#comment-77386</guid>
		<description>@Debbie: Robyn is right. I have used indoor water based urethane for YEARS now. Actually, I use indoor semi gloss paint as well. I have intentionally left sets outside, just to see what happens. Trust me, you will be fine with the indoor urethane. I have several loaner sets that are stored in a stand alone shed all winter and summer. I live in Northeast Ohio, and temperatures range from -5 to 95…all of my boards are fine. They have been stored in this fashion for years now with no problems. What concerns me is your comment about the decal. If it is peeling up now, something went wrong in the application process. Urethane is not going to keep your logo from peeling up, unless you use 15 coats I suppose. We use urethane to even the look and playing surface of the boards. If the logo peels, it will bring the urethane up with it. Perhaps you should bite the bullet on the logo and get a new set. If you apply it right, there is NO way it is coming up without a major fight! If you would like tips on applying graphics properly, visit our site below. You will find tips and tricks to finishing boards properly. If you decide to move forward with those logos, you are going to want to try to adhere them better. Put some heavy paper over the logo and heat them with a heat gun on LOW while pressing down firmly with a blunt object on the areas just heated. I actually prefer to use a cut paint stirrer! Works the best for me. Once you do this, apply a few extra coats of clearcoat for good measure, just to be safe! Hope this helps!!

TJ
BG Boards
buckeye gameboards dot com</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>@Debbie: Robyn is right. I have used indoor water based urethane for YEARS now. Actually, I use indoor semi gloss paint as well. I have intentionally left sets outside, just to see what happens. Trust me, you will be fine with the indoor urethane. I have several loaner sets that are stored in a stand alone shed all winter and summer. I live in Northeast Ohio, and temperatures range from -5 to 95…all of my boards are fine. They have been stored in this fashion for years now with no problems. What concerns me is your comment about the decal. If it is peeling up now, something went wrong in the application process. Urethane is not going to keep your logo from peeling up, unless you use 15 coats I suppose. We use urethane to even the look and playing surface of the boards. If the logo peels, it will bring the urethane up with it. Perhaps you should bite the bullet on the logo and get a new set. If you apply it right, there is NO way it is coming up without a major fight! If you would like tips on applying graphics properly, visit our site below. You will find tips and tricks to finishing boards properly. If you decide to move forward with those logos, you are going to want to try to adhere them better. Put some heavy paper over the logo and heat them with a heat gun on LOW while pressing down firmly with a blunt object on the areas just heated. I actually prefer to use a cut paint stirrer! Works the best for me. Once you do this, apply a few extra coats of clearcoat for good measure, just to be safe! Hope this helps!!</p>
<p>TJ<br />
BG Boards<br />
buckeye gameboards dot com</p>
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		<title>By: Ted</title>
		<link>http://www.cornholecornhole.com/how-to-choose-the-perfect-material-for-your-cornhole-boards/comment-page-7#comment-77384</link>
		<dc:creator>Ted</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 28 Dec 2011 19:04:54 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.cornholecornhole.com/wp2/how-to-choose-the-perfect-material-for-your-cornhole-boards#comment-77384</guid>
		<description>Debbie,

I have been building cornhole boards since 2007. I have always used the aqua blue can of Minwax Polycrylic. My personal set has the same finish on them that I put on my customer&#039;s boards and no problem. I usually apply 6-8 coats of poly on all my boards. Spar urethane will leave an amber look to your boards. Polycrylic will not. 

Trust me....polycrylic will not crack or peel in extremem temperatures once it&#039;s cured. It&#039;s in the 20&#039;s and 30&#039;s at night here right now and when I get a set of boards done, they go in my storage building til the customer can pick them up and there is NO heat at all in my storage building. Never an issue. 

w w w DOT mountainstatecornhole DOT com</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Debbie,</p>
<p>I have been building cornhole boards since 2007. I have always used the aqua blue can of Minwax Polycrylic. My personal set has the same finish on them that I put on my customer&#8217;s boards and no problem. I usually apply 6-8 coats of poly on all my boards. Spar urethane will leave an amber look to your boards. Polycrylic will not. </p>
<p>Trust me&#8230;.polycrylic will not crack or peel in extremem temperatures once it&#8217;s cured. It&#8217;s in the 20&#8242;s and 30&#8242;s at night here right now and when I get a set of boards done, they go in my storage building til the customer can pick them up and there is NO heat at all in my storage building. Never an issue. </p>
<p>w w w DOT mountainstatecornhole DOT com</p>
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		<title>By: robynseavers</title>
		<link>http://www.cornholecornhole.com/how-to-choose-the-perfect-material-for-your-cornhole-boards/comment-page-7#comment-77364</link>
		<dc:creator>robynseavers</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 28 Dec 2011 17:01:28 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description>I live in Indiana and store my boards in my garage and they have never blistered or peeled or cracked. I use the poly in the blue can.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I live in Indiana and store my boards in my garage and they have never blistered or peeled or cracked. I use the poly in the blue can.</p>
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		<title>By: Debbie</title>
		<link>http://www.cornholecornhole.com/how-to-choose-the-perfect-material-for-your-cornhole-boards/comment-page-7#comment-77354</link>
		<dc:creator>Debbie</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 28 Dec 2011 16:25:39 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.cornholecornhole.com/wp2/how-to-choose-the-perfect-material-for-your-cornhole-boards#comment-77354</guid>
		<description>My aqua blue can of Minwax water based Polycrylic protective finish says in the instructions use on interior wood surfaces.  So, I called minwax to ask about use on my cornhole boards.  They told me if exposed to extreme temps it would crack, blister and peel.  I told them I live in North Carolina and would store them under my deck and was told that wouldn&#039;t work.  I was told only if taken outside for a couple hours occasionally and stored in the garage would this prodoct &#039;probably&#039; work.  It would be best if I waited until the end of January the begining of February when their new product, Helmsman Spar Urethane, a water based product, in the hunter green can becomes available.  Do I not have the same product (Minwax Polycrylic in an aqua blue can) you talk about in previous posts?  I am very confused.  If I do have the same product, How long have you used your cornholes protected with it, are you happy with it?  Where do you store your boards?  How are they holding up?  It does get to 100 degrees sometimes here. I have already painted and applied decals to my boards I&#039;m worried about waiting to use the poly as my decal looks like it might start lifting.  Please share your thoughts and ideas.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>My aqua blue can of Minwax water based Polycrylic protective finish says in the instructions use on interior wood surfaces.  So, I called minwax to ask about use on my cornhole boards.  They told me if exposed to extreme temps it would crack, blister and peel.  I told them I live in North Carolina and would store them under my deck and was told that wouldn&#8217;t work.  I was told only if taken outside for a couple hours occasionally and stored in the garage would this prodoct &#8216;probably&#8217; work.  It would be best if I waited until the end of January the begining of February when their new product, Helmsman Spar Urethane, a water based product, in the hunter green can becomes available.  Do I not have the same product (Minwax Polycrylic in an aqua blue can) you talk about in previous posts?  I am very confused.  If I do have the same product, How long have you used your cornholes protected with it, are you happy with it?  Where do you store your boards?  How are they holding up?  It does get to 100 degrees sometimes here. I have already painted and applied decals to my boards I&#8217;m worried about waiting to use the poly as my decal looks like it might start lifting.  Please share your thoughts and ideas.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: AJ</title>
		<link>http://www.cornholecornhole.com/how-to-choose-the-perfect-material-for-your-cornhole-boards/comment-page-7#comment-75856</link>
		<dc:creator>AJ</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 22 Dec 2011 03:43:35 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.cornholecornhole.com/wp2/how-to-choose-the-perfect-material-for-your-cornhole-boards#comment-75856</guid>
		<description>I have built numerous sets of cornhole sets to sell. Here are my suggestions.
1) Use 3/4 plywood. I use cabinet grade plywood because it is usually perfect and free of any defects. Be choosy when selecting. I dig to the bottom of the pile if I have to, to find the perfect one. The advantage of the 3/4 over the half is that the bags do not bounce on it like they tend to do on the 1/2 ones. You can usually get a good deal on cabinet grade plywood at Home Depot. 3/4 Sanded plywood also works.
2) Use decent paint. I usually use exterior water based semi gloss. This will protect it somewhat from the weather IF they were left outside. Prime the boards first with Kilz or undercoating. I water it down just a tad so that it really fills in all the cracks and crevices of the wood. After this has dried, I use a palm sander to make sure that the wood is totally smooth and it helps alot when it&#039;s time to paint.
3) Tape off what you want to paint. Don&#039;t skimp on tape. I learned this the hard way after having to go back repeatedly and repaint lines that I had already painted. Paint lines first, then tape off the lines. Right beside your tape line, paint along the tape line with the same color as the stripe. That way, what bleeds under the tape is the same color as what you already painted. Very Important step!
After the paint has completely dried, you are ready for whichever sealer you choose. I have used the clear coat in the spray can the most and overall I&#039;m pretty happy with it. I just started using the Minwax polycrylic in the blue can and it does make a huge difference. It gives the boards a very glossy appearance and most importantly, it doesn&#039;t yellow your boards like polyurethane. I hope this info was helpful. Happy Corn Hole building!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have built numerous sets of cornhole sets to sell. Here are my suggestions.<br />
1) Use 3/4 plywood. I use cabinet grade plywood because it is usually perfect and free of any defects. Be choosy when selecting. I dig to the bottom of the pile if I have to, to find the perfect one. The advantage of the 3/4 over the half is that the bags do not bounce on it like they tend to do on the 1/2 ones. You can usually get a good deal on cabinet grade plywood at Home Depot. 3/4 Sanded plywood also works.<br />
2) Use decent paint. I usually use exterior water based semi gloss. This will protect it somewhat from the weather IF they were left outside. Prime the boards first with Kilz or undercoating. I water it down just a tad so that it really fills in all the cracks and crevices of the wood. After this has dried, I use a palm sander to make sure that the wood is totally smooth and it helps alot when it&#8217;s time to paint.<br />
3) Tape off what you want to paint. Don&#8217;t skimp on tape. I learned this the hard way after having to go back repeatedly and repaint lines that I had already painted. Paint lines first, then tape off the lines. Right beside your tape line, paint along the tape line with the same color as the stripe. That way, what bleeds under the tape is the same color as what you already painted. Very Important step!<br />
After the paint has completely dried, you are ready for whichever sealer you choose. I have used the clear coat in the spray can the most and overall I&#8217;m pretty happy with it. I just started using the Minwax polycrylic in the blue can and it does make a huge difference. It gives the boards a very glossy appearance and most importantly, it doesn&#8217;t yellow your boards like polyurethane. I hope this info was helpful. Happy Corn Hole building!</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: graffiti image</title>
		<link>http://www.cornholecornhole.com/how-to-choose-the-perfect-material-for-your-cornhole-boards/comment-page-7#comment-70670</link>
		<dc:creator>graffiti image</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 28 Nov 2011 11:40:51 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.cornholecornhole.com/wp2/how-to-choose-the-perfect-material-for-your-cornhole-boards#comment-70670</guid>
		<description>I savor, result in I found exactly what I used to be having a look for. You have ended my four day lengthy hunt! God Bless you man. Have a nice day. Bye</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I savor, result in I found exactly what I used to be having a look for. You have ended my four day lengthy hunt! God Bless you man. Have a nice day. Bye</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>By: BLOK Charity Auto</title>
		<link>http://www.cornholecornhole.com/how-to-choose-the-perfect-material-for-your-cornhole-boards/comment-page-7#comment-70354</link>
		<dc:creator>BLOK Charity Auto</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 26 Nov 2011 19:34:16 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.cornholecornhole.com/wp2/how-to-choose-the-perfect-material-for-your-cornhole-boards#comment-70354</guid>
		<description>Its such as you read my mind! You seem to understand so much approximately this, such as you wrote the e book in it or something. I feel that you simply could do with a few p.c. to force the message house a little bit, but other than that, this is fantastic blog. A fantastic read. I will certainly be back.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Its such as you read my mind! You seem to understand so much approximately this, such as you wrote the e book in it or something. I feel that you simply could do with a few p.c. to force the message house a little bit, but other than that, this is fantastic blog. A fantastic read. I will certainly be back.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: TJ</title>
		<link>http://www.cornholecornhole.com/how-to-choose-the-perfect-material-for-your-cornhole-boards/comment-page-7#comment-70207</link>
		<dc:creator>TJ</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 26 Nov 2011 03:06:23 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.cornholecornhole.com/wp2/how-to-choose-the-perfect-material-for-your-cornhole-boards#comment-70207</guid>
		<description>Choosing the right materials for your boards is so simple.  If you want to make a great set of boards, you MUST use 3/4 decks.  It can be oak, birch, blondewood or pine.  Obviously a hardwood will finish much better than pine, so if you will have exposed wood grain I recommend birch, then blondwood and finally oak.  Oak actually has the nicest look, but its deep grain doesn&#039;t look good on a cornhole set in my opinion.  The frame material is inconsequential.  You can use 2 by 4s, 2 by 3, or 1 by pine or even hardwood.  You WILL NOT be able to tell a difference in play from one frame to the other.  Now switch from 3/4 to 1/2....big difference.  The bags bounce off the boards like trampolines even if you brace it from underneath halfway.  Also, the</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Choosing the right materials for your boards is so simple.  If you want to make a great set of boards, you MUST use 3/4 decks.  It can be oak, birch, blondewood or pine.  Obviously a hardwood will finish much better than pine, so if you will have exposed wood grain I recommend birch, then blondwood and finally oak.  Oak actually has the nicest look, but its deep grain doesn&#8217;t look good on a cornhole set in my opinion.  The frame material is inconsequential.  You can use 2 by 4s, 2 by 3, or 1 by pine or even hardwood.  You WILL NOT be able to tell a difference in play from one frame to the other.  Now switch from 3/4 to 1/2&#8230;.big difference.  The bags bounce off the boards like trampolines even if you brace it from underneath halfway.  Also, the</p>
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